Paris, London, Brooklyn...In One Day

My Brooklyn back yard after six weeks of neglect

Dear Readers,

My six week stay in my family's house in France having come to an end, I flew back home yesterday afternoon. My husband and I left Paris early in the morning on Tuesday, stopped over in London, and continued on to the States. We arrived at Kennedy Airport to monsoon rains and dreadful humidity. Ah, the joys of summer in the city. I had almost forgotten what it feels like.

After a good night's sleep and a welcome home hug from both of my kids and my wonderful neighbors D. and T., I feel less jet-lagged this morning and ready to slip back into my life here. The fact that the sun is shining and that the temperature has cooled a bit make re-entry easier today.

My suitcase is already unpacked, the washing machine is going and I have managed to open most of my mail. Now for the bill paying and weeding of the garden. But that can wait as I pour myself another cup of coffee and catch up on today's global and local news.

Please give me a few days to settle back in. I promise Pardon Me For Asking will be reporting Carroll Gardens news in just a few days, so please check back. If you have any tips, please don't hesitate to email me.

Though I am still sad that I had to leave France behind, I have missed Carroll Gardens and all you wonderful readers.

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Au Revoir, L'Auvergne

T'was a sad Monday morning. Everything had been put away, the house thoroughly cleaned and the water turned off. We turned the key in the lock one last time, said one more quick good-bye to our wonderful French neighbors who take such good care of the house when we are not there, clicked one more photo and drove down our hill for the last time in 2011.

I admit, I cried.

It is so difficult to tear myself away from my little Auvergnat village, from our friends and from the sheer beauty of the green hills. Yes, I love my life in Brooklyn, but here is where my heart is. Here is where life seems real to me.

Now, I will count down the days until I can put the keys back in that door. Soon, very soon, I hope.

Merci à tous mes amis auvergnats, surtout Marinette, René, Michel, Claudine, Corinne et famille, la famille O, Charlène et famille et Mr. et Mme. M.

Restez en bonne santée. Vous me manquez déjà. Prenez bien soin de notre petit village sur la colline. Et encore de bonnes vacances avec des jours bien ensoleillés.

To Elaine and Richard and their great group of friends, thanks for including us this summer. It was great hanging out with you. Hope to see all of you next year.

And here is a blast from the past, a few family photos taken at the house in the 1970's, so that you understand my attachment to the place.

Me in front of the fireplace in 1972

My mother sitting on the stone bench in the front yard

And both of my parents with our donkey Balthazar at breakfast in the yard, circa 1973-74.

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Big Surprise Win At The Village's Pétanque Tournament This Year

After much anticipation, the day of the yearly Pétanque Tournament in our little Auvergnat village had finally arrived again. At exactly two o'clock, Monsieur Pardon Me and our neighbors and his teammates, Mr. J and Mr. M, grabbed their boules and headed down to the pétanque court, near the village's church.

They were the first "triplet" to arrive, so they had time to warm up with a few practice shots. Slowly, the other teams started to arrive. As the players sized each other up, the spectators took their places around the court or around the "buvette" were one could purchase a glass of rosé, beer or a can of soft drinks.

Then the tournament officially started. Mr. Pardon Me and his partners won their first game, lost the second one, and won the third, managing to qualify for the final in which they faced one of the best teams in the village.

To everyone's surprise, Monsieur Pardon Me and his partners played so well in this last game, that they ended up winning the entire tournament.

They were presented with a bottle of champagne and a trophy and the winners quickly bought the losers a drink at the buvette. There didn't seem to be any hard feelings.

Next year, the "trio fabuleux" will have to defend its title. It won't be easy. But I am looking forward to it already.

Mr. Pardon Me with the trophy. Can you tell he was stoked?

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Old Crafts Flourishing In The Auvergne

A century ago, all Auvergnat farmers wore sabots, or wooden shoes, even during the cold winter. Leather shoes were a luxury few could afford and those who could, reserved them for church on Sunday.

Fourty years ago, when I came to this region of France as a child, many people in my village still wore them to do their chores. Slowly though, they were replaced by rubber boots or sturdier footware, though our friend René who owns a nearby farm, still wears his.

Yesterday in Issoire, a wonderful old town with a splendid romanesque church and a wonderful Saturday market, there was a special exhibit showcasing the crafts of yesteryear.

Amongst the craftspeople, was an old man who still made wooden sabots, which he was selling.

There was also someone weaving the most amazing giant baskets.

I was so tempted to buy one, but somehow, I am not sure it would have fit in the overhead compartment on the flight home.

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Of The Importance Of Bread...

"What we need is an appropriate bread bag." said Monsieur Pardon Me one morning during our vacation in the Auvergne. "One that is long enough to hold a bagette and wide enough so I can buy five at a time when we have guests."

I had to agree. The old plastic bag that he took along to the bakery every morning looked rather shabby. It was time to take out my sewing machine, find a bit of fabric in the armoire, measure a loaf of bread and make something more appropriate for our daily bread runs.

The result, I dare say, is rather nice looking. Mr. Pardon Me proudly carried it down to the bakery in the village. More importantly, it passed the ultimate test when the pain de campagne (country bread) we bought fit in it beautifully. Even Madame La Boulangère approved.

And surely, you will agree, dear Reader, that such a fine bread as this deserves its very own stylish bag. Just look at that crust.

I will have to make another one for Brooklyn and for our daily runs to Caputo Bakery on Court.

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Never A Dull Moment In The Auvergne

It seems implausible, but time seems to pass much quicker in the Auvergne than back in Brooklyn. The days just slip away from me. There are always a thousand little things to start and finish, and I always have that gnawing feeling that not everything will get done.

Monsieur Pardon Me and I have made a list of the chores we need to accomplish here at our house before we return to our regular life in New York.

There is the hallway which needs another coat of paint. (Unfortunately, the new stair rail will have to wait another year since we couldn't find the oak we wanted)

There is the sanding and oiling of outdoor teak furniture, so that it does not turn gray over the winter.

The plants need to be pruned, thinned, transplanted.

...and this being France, of course, there are many meals to prepare.

Not every moment is spent working, of course. There are plenty of moments to just enjoy the splendid countryside, especially when the rain stops and the fog lifts...

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Up High In Montpeyroux In The Auvergne

We had passed the picturesque Auvergnat village of Montpeyroux so many times before on our way to the city of Clermont-Ferrand, intending to stop and visit. But time after time, we just glanced from the car window as we drove by. This year, we finally managed to set a day aside to explore this charming place.

Montpeyroux is classifies as one of 156 of the 'prettiest villages in France' and it definitely merits its place on that list. Situated an top of a hill, Montperoux's ancient stone houses, some dating from the early 1100's, along winding cobblestoned streets. Right in the center of this medieval village, there stands a dungeon from the XIII. century, from which, if you dare climb its winding stone steps, one has the most amazing views of the famous Chaîne Des Puys, or chain of volcanos, which dominate the landscape of the Auvergne.

Once populated by stone masons and wine makers, Montpeyroux has now become home to many artists and artisans. It has about 350 inhabitants. The houses have been lovingly restored and the most beautiful flowers grow everywhere in the village.

What I admire more than anything here in France is the love of history, the respect for what came before and the tireless effort to preserve this rich past.

Though Montpeyroux is obviously quite a bit older than Carroll Gardens, our own Brooklyn neighborhood, deserves the same respect and the same preservation for future generations.

Wouldn't you say?

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